Its a systemic problem since Windows Using a Mac as a workaround is a total failure and unacceptable. The tester should have sent the review sample for this ad as untestable back. My deskspace is limited. I dont own a printer nor a scanner anymore. Putting this boatanchor in my workflow will never happen again. I've used the V on various versions of Windows and various PC's and never had any software hiccup whatsoever.
The scanner is handy for all kinds of documents besides photography, and a cheap laser printer rounds off my setup nicely. Worth their space on my desk for sure. Good quality but still requires a lot of work in post. Much the same here. I used an Olympus E-M1. The slide duplicator needs a mm step up ring and throw away the crappy plastic lens that comes with it. It's pretty well perfect for 35mm slides. For backlight, I used a small Ledgo LED light on a lamp stand, the camera on a tripod and away I went with a couple of thousand slides.
Just couldn't see the value is a slide scanner. I have a standard scanner for prints. All done now. Hope never to see film again. For the WIndows 10, try this:. Then uninstall the program and install it again from their website rather than the DVD that came with the unit. Here are my V scans 35mm and I've only used Epsonscan software. I've recently upgraded to the Epson V Its fim holder has ANR glass that keep the film flat and height adjustments for best focus.
These are 4x5 samples that compare favorably with a Howtek drum scanner. I also use Epsonscan software. For practical reasons any flatbed will be a better option for scanning. Drum scanners are far past end of life. They are hobbled along by certain experts or say Aztec for former Howtek scanners. Operator skills show much more variation with drums, so unless you have someone that makes a scanner sing with maintained hardware, a simple Epson will be better at producing a reasonable scan.
On top of that drum scanners scan positives better than negatives! Epson software sucks, I'd say Silverfast is the best option. I do think the V is a great choice, if I were still scanning that would be it.
This little scanner is a poor choice for quality scans. During the covid lock-down I did a quick write-up of my experiences of using different devices for film scanning. What is the deal with major manufacturers designing perfectly good hardware but then shipping it with bogus software that completely hamstrings their product?
See also every mobile app from every camera manufacturer. Don't they realize that if the software is crap, the entire product is crap as well? It's not like they don't have the budget. Epson is a multi-billion-dollar company and the software is not exactly cutting edge in terms of what it needs to be able to do.
It just needs to freakin' work right, and have the features that people need. Yet they put zero effort into this area, and it renders the whole product pointless. They might as well be manufacturing trash, and all because they forgot to update their software anytime in the last fifteen years.
Why drum scan 35mm film when the most resolution you'll ever get is about 10mp for speed colour film? Trouble was most people never really got all they could from 35mm film. Often down to poor technique and poor scanning. Digital was cleaner so many often felt early digital cameras were better then 35mm. Plus, printing from an enlarger is better than using a scanner and printing on an ink jet. MHshooter — "printing from an enlarger is better than using a scanner and printing on an ink jet.
In my extensive experience with both processes, 'Photoshop' manipulation is far more capable and efficient than dodging, burning, masking, using variable contrast paper, and rubbing the print during development. One can argue about the general 'look' of the final print and prefer one over the other, but not about the ability to realize one's goals for tonal rendering, where the digital process far surpasses optical printing.
One can suggest that anything short of a pro drum scan can't reveal the complete tonal range of a negative, but once that scan is available, the result is superb. I say this from my own experience, not as a biased advocate. I have also worked with mural printing, where optical printing is extremely demanding and typically produces defects, even when the projection setup is carefully aligned and a large darkroom is available. MHshooter — Have you worked with professional drum scans from well-exposed negs -- processed them to make digital prints from them?
If not, you owe it to yourself to find out how great the results can be. It is expensive, but IMO it represents the best of both analog and digital worlds. Bad assumptions about how film grain works versus pixels. Film grains clump together which means the resolution you get are from clumps, not actual discrete film grains.
Scanning at very high resolution images the clumps as 2D objects, hence you end up with huge file sizes from 35mm film frames, but no further resolution than a mp digital sensor. MHShooter, as you said, you would be lucky to get 10 mp out of the best lens and finest film from any 35 mm camera. Anything above 80 lines per mm was tops during film days. Interesting, isn't it?
Completely different reasons than for film, but the same effect. There have been some films Tech-Pan that paired with very special lenses maybe Nikon Ultra-Micro Nikkors that probably delivered more than 11mp. It has been pointed out a couple of times and with resolution tests that de Epson Vxxx series don't really resolve more than to dpi.
Scanning higher than that will not give you more detail, the optics are just not up to the task. At those resolutions, the scanning time is more acceptable and if you use good conversion software the results can be quite good.
But you need a better dedicated film scanner or a nice ILC-scanning setup to get more detail. But remember, there is no 'the one' correct inversion for a scan..
There is a lot of choice and the person doing the inversion has a lot of control and impact in the final result. This is the reason most people want to do it at home. Good quality scanning labs are rare these days. Must be better ones now. I have had this for about 8 years - does a pretty good job on 35mm - only scanned a few larger format photos. Seem ok on films. Trouble is there aren't any better flat beds in that price range. The V is basically what is available.
The v is better but much more expensive and the plustek scanners despite have more res are slow and only scan one frame at a time. DSLR like a D can give great results if you have the gear to go with it and know how to adjust the scans after. Thank you for this.
I've just barely gotten my feet wet with film and I see this as a terrific endorsement of letting the professionals do it unless I really get into film. Which is unlikely. My scans in professional mode on the V look infinitely better than those sorry results. Most consumers. Older people. You think too highly of people. Most SLRs go innthe hands of people who never take it off Auto mode.
Sharp enough on medium film or large format some year old. I have been using one for many years. I scan for myself and clients. The results are a lot better then the test ones. I print 20x24 easily from 35mm slides and negs. One thing they got right was "a lot depends on the operator and the settings". I have clients that do their own and they are horrible!! I seriously have a hard time understanding why anyone would shoot film today.
Look at the best possible images from the pro lab - they do not even approach modern dslr or mirrorless cameras. I guess it is the difference between driving a Tesla or driving a model T Ford - some people just like to drive strange old stuff. It is hard to explain but the bottom line is my images since shooting with film have improved in my opinion. And on top of that, I am enjoying it a lot more. I had lost my mojo a bit with digital and was bored. Getting more digital gear was not the answer.
Going MF film was the answer. The world is full of questions, isn't it? I have a hard time understanding why a photographer, who should nominally have an understanding of intellectual property, would steal David Hobby's copyrighted work to use as an avatar but here we are. As far as your analogy is concerned, shooting film can be like driving a Model T, or a Mercedes Benz gullwing, or a hopped up Nova to take to the dragstrip, or a nimble Honda S, or even a heavy Mack truck.
The variety of film and film cameras hardly deserve to be lumped into a single poorly thought out analogy from someone who isn't interested. If you don't understand it, that's fine. But there are plenty of others who do. Medium or large format film are probably the main remaining use cases for all but a niche - since the cost delta between MF film and MF digital is HUGE. The biggest use for stuff like this are people who want to digitize old film from back in the day.
In my case, I use a macro lens, copy stand, and lighttable. The analogy was wrt the scanned film from a professional scanning service. And comparing that to any modern FF camera. I do not think any 35mm film can compare favorably to modern FF sensors. Fine - you like the process of shooting film. You like to see some image you took with film and feel satisfied knowing that it was a process to get it that way. That works well for you. But - if you are interested in others liking your images - digital is a more flexible, higher quality medium.
This is a creative, subjective medium. I know this is a gear heads forum but cameras are not for measuring , they are built for a creative purpose. Brownie - "if you are interested in others liking your images" - What an absurd statement.
I suppose you are a photographer or someone who looks at images at least? Have you looked at any photographs from before digital? I mean back then, there were still very popular photographers. Some of them made outstanding photos. You must know that. It's bonkers that some people seem to be of the opinion that they know what "quality" should mean for other people.
Some make their own wooden furniture. Some make their own clothes. Some play music on old beaten up musical instruments. Yeah, its all crap and nobody like what they do. Maybe the end result doesn't matter to you You are aware that there are other factors in play when doing photography or art, for that matter , than using present day high tech gear?
Honestly, this article shows nothing. Sample photographs are really bad. My lab uses a Noritsu machine, that gives me a nice 24mp images. Speaking about film, it's my favourite medium. In my view, the photos just look better. Greens, tonality, highlights, everything.
I even tried Fuji X series cameras based on positive critics here. It's nowhere near film. Looks like any other digital camera. Brownie, "I seriously have a hard time understanding why anyone would shoot film today Film photography is a challenge to many which results in joy.
F4 etc ,Hasselblad series are costing much more than a year or two ago. I am hoping for more and more labs open. I am in the process of divesting almost all my film gear with the intent of cutting out endless options and finally focusing on photography rather than playing with cameras.
But I know that I will likely never come close to the fabulous look of Medium Format Portra in digital. And traveling with film is now beyond stressful. Neither of these scans are optimum for film. A simple cheapie plustek scanner, vuescan and NLP software will get significantly better results than either the lab or the epson.
I find your statement really interesting. It is precisely because I want to concentrate on photography that I am enjoying film so much. Film makes me think much harder about every image I take.
I hardly think about the gear at all. So my experience is the opposite to yours. Curious how much real detail comes out of scans and where the point of diminishing returns is reasonably set for different sizes and haven't used scanners much, but have a lot of old 35mm negs.
How many MP is the file out of a dpi and dpi - seems like it might be beyond the detail captured in most 35mm film exposures This scanner's max resolution is achieved at the dpi setting. We have an older Epson running on Windows 7. During the Covid lock down, I spent many hours scanning slides and photos for my daughter who wanted a duplicate of our many family albums and boxes of slides for her own her and her husband's family records. In the end, while it wouldn't be fair to expect perfection at the price point, she was more than happy with the results and I know that many of the scans ended up on a Google drive and were shared numerous times with cousins and old school friends who happened to be in the photos.
In summary, I don't think this Epson was priced or intended to be a professional level tool, but in my case it is definitely worth the money -especially for those of us who want to share photos and slides that otherwise would have remained in old albums. It goes by the brand Reflecta in other regions.
Flatbeds, even the V, cannot match the resolution nor the scan quality of a true film scanner for 35mm. They shine when used with medium and large format. The V uses other equipment compared to the bigger V and up and those are sigificantly better.
Film scanners use CCD sensors with 3 full independent channels. Both approaches may be just fine, but please dont argue for the 'film look' and then use a digital camera. You would be missing the point. Btw, color correcting Portra is a nightmare in itself.
The scanner software plays a huge role, e. Something I do not like. I should add that a CCD scanner as a 4th channel used to remove dust and scratches from a color film automatically. A DSLR scan cannot easily do that which makes avoiding dust is a major, major pain. These are some of the worst scans I've seen come out of an Epson, I get results way way better than this.
Operator logic and skill needs to apply ;-D. So, where did you come up with that pricing? I have a similar scanner also an Epson, different model and the software that runs it is indeed absolute garbage.
It's like somebody knocked it out in a weekend back in and then nobody ever touched it ever again. Borderline unusable. Also, it takes absolute ages to scan if you want any kind of usable resolution, and there's no guarantee that it's going to come out correctly the first time even if you preview.
You're going to be waiting quite a while for a dozen frames to scan, and then you might have to do it over again. Then you're going to need to crop, rotate, and correct colors manually, for every frame. It is an incredibly boring, tedious, and time-consuming process. If you're buying one of these to scan all your old family negatives, you'd better block out a month or so because that's how long it'll take.
Better yet, don't buy this and just pay the money to have someone else deal with it. If you're scanning very small numbers of photos one roll per week, max then it might be a tolerable, albeit unpleasant, experience. Nice effort with the review and good to see all the comments. Also, worth trying out VueScan, which does have some baked in profiles for C films. Under the hood, Epson Scan is quite powerful.
I would love to see a third option of a higher end dedicated film scanner to compare to these. Maybe a Pacific Image or Braun? There used to be quite a few more options out there in dedicated film scanners. I still use my Epson Perfection Photo But I use Silverfast to control the scanner I tried the epson software different than what you show here, I know when I bought the scanner I use this with a Nikon Z7 and the results are significantly better than I got with my Minolta Dimage scanner.
Particularly with shadow detail which was mostly lacking from the Dimage scanner. Re: Epson Perfection scanner. I bought a Epson Perfection from amazon. It worked perfectly for 2 days, coverting 35mm negatives to pictures, in home mode then it stopped interpreting the negatives as a negative, and started interpreting them as a positive.
I have an old computer, Windows 7. But if that is the problem, why did it work so well at first? No mention of transparency film? Is that even an option nowadays? While certainly good to see what the fast easy home mode does, there should be best quality mode done as well. I've had the Epson Perfection V scanner for over a year now. Every month so I have to deal with the software not working I've spend hours watching tutorials and following every step.
Yesterday I scanned about files. Today i am unable to scab at all. The continuing frustration of updating the Epson software is daunting. As far as I'm concerned, Epson owes me for at least 5 hours profession working time. It has been a nightmare. It's so strange how peoples' experience can be so different. Wish I could help you, but it's been ok with me and I've been using it straight out of the box with no updating see comment below. Have you tried uninstalling and then reinstalling the disc?
I've been using the V for about a year with Windows 10 and so far have scanned in Home Mode nearly Col neg, mono neg, slide film, 35mm and medium format.
All good. The only problem I had was a thin purple line appearing on some initial scans, but this disappeared after carefully wiping the sensors at the rear of the glass. For speed I scan at relatively low resolutions but still good enough to fill the computer screen with a sharp image.
I've read that there is better software than Epson's and I'm sure that this may be the case, but I've been happy with it. Afterwards, I adjust the scans with Microsoft Office Picture Manager and Microsoft Image Composer - so basic it's almost quaint, but happy with the results.
Bertharius, I have also noticed the purple line in a few slide scans. You have mentioned " this disappeared after carefully wiping the sensors at the rear of the glass". Did you open up the unit to expose the sensor? Can you elaborate? Hello Balu, No, I didn't open up the unit; If you lift up the scanner cover you will see two small plastic rectangles at the rear edge of the glass.
These are the sensors which tell the scanner if the cover is in place or not. To be honest, I don't know if there is a correlation between wiping them with a soft cloth and having the purple line removed - but it worked for me. Now, after many thousands of scans, that line has not re-occurred.
Before I discovered this, I would switch off the scanner then switch it on again and this worked - sort of - but the line was seen again after a few scans. Anyway, hope this works for you. The Nikon Z9 is the company's first camera to feature a stacked CMOS sensor, which brings a raft of new features, including blazing speed and autofocus performance to the Z lineup.
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Thankfully, the 3D printing community is incredibly helpful and has plenty of resources online to help get you printing. Even with these two small caveats, the Simple Creality LDR is fantastic and is strongly recommended for anybody looking to get into 3D printing on a budget.
Featuring a large open bed with walls covering all sides of it and a door for access to the inside, this 3D printer is one of the most secure of all open-bedded printers. This printer has absolutely fantastic build quality and feels incredibly sturdy, and results in some amazing 3D prints. Best Luxury 3D Printer - Snapmaker 2. Judging it solely as a 3D printer, this machine has excellent print quality, has great and easy-to-understand software, and is overall designed excellently.
The printer is made entirely out of machined metal, with the build quality greater than most competing models. The printer is also very easy to assemble, with the instructions being incredibly straightforward and simple.
Perhaps the only real downside of this printer is its noise levels: at times, it can be quite loud. Though this printer is quite expensive, its incredibly high level of quality makes it worth it -- and the fact that you are getting a laser cutter and CNC machine in this package as well makes it feel even more worthwhile. It has a very simple and straightforward design, making it easy to use for even those new to the world of 3D printing.
The Lulzbot Mini 2 improves on the Lulzbot Mini 1, with faster motors, a slightly larger print bed, and an improved printhead that can handle more flexible materials. The printer also prints fast and quietly on a compact print bed, all of which are solid plusses. And there you have it -- four of some of the best 3D printers currently on the market, for every type of budget. A similar option is Power Print. Either option will work, however Flash Print offers a wider variety of options to customize your print.
A: Basic Mode will automatically apply the defaults of more advanced settings, such as retraction speed, raft layer height, support thickness, etc. Expert Mode will let you change these settings. You will not notice any difference in the normal settings for your file, such as Scale, Rotate, Move or View, however once you click Print you will notice you have quite a few more options to choose from.
Q: What is Variable Layer Height? A: Variable Layer Height allows for a smoother final finish, better layer adhesion, and a physically stronger part. It is important to note that variable layer heights only help when printing geometry that has more than about a degree slope to it, such as spheres.
For parts that are primarily vertical in shape a fixed layer height is just fine. A: If you hover over the blue bar on the right side of the screen, you'll notice that it draws a line on the model as well. This is merely a preview and will move based on your mouse position on the bar on the right.
A: Please note that the Layer Height it lists there is not the height of the layer itself, but rather the height from the bottom of the model to where you selected.
The percentage will be a percentage of the layer height that you set on the General tab; this is what you need to change to set the individual layer height. Once you choose your first layer, click the add option.
You can now see it is listed under Delete Layer Height. You can go by exact measurements by changing the Add Layer Height measurement, or you can continue to hover over the bar on the right and choose locations based on the visual indicator. A: Layer Height is the base height for each layer, while First Layer Height is going to be the layer height of the first layer that is placed down. This can help the stability of the print if you are having issues with it not sticking to the print bed.
You can also add a raft to assist with this. A: Temperatures will vary based on the filament you are using. For exact temperatures, check with the manufacturer of your filament. It should also be listed on the packaging. Alternatively, you can also check out our FAQs on each of the different types of filament, where temperatures will be discussed.
Q: What is base print speed and when would I change this? A: Base print speed prints is the base speed at which your printer prints. Lowering this speed will result in better print quality, however it will take longer to print.
Increasing this speed will make your prints faster, but at the sacrifice of print resolution. Q: What is travel speed and when would I change this? A: Travel speed is something that will vary quite a bit between different printers.
It is the speed at which the extruder travels while NOT printing, and just moving to the next location where it will print. Increasing this speed can help reduce oozing out of the nozzle while it is not printing. The exact speed will vary based on whether you have a Direct or Bowden style extruder. Q: Do I have a Direct or Bowden style extruder?
A: If you are using a PowerSpec 3D printer, all our printers are using a Direct extruder aside from the i3 Mini Printer, which is a Bowden style extruder. If you are unsure, you can check out this article which covers the differences between the two. Q: What is retraction length and speed? This also is something that will be changed depending on your specific printer, the filament, and whether you have a Direct or Bowden extruder. Q: How would I calibrate retraction and travel speed for my printer?
One such option you can find here. Keep in mind for Bowden extruders you will typically need faster speeds and a larger retraction length due to its design. Retraction will also not be as effective on Bowden extruders.
Q: What is Shell Count? A: Shell Count determines the thickness of the outside wall of your print. It is how many layers are printed that contain the infill. Typically, two is fine, as setting this higher will use more filament and take longer, but the print will be sturdier and less likely to leak if it is holding liquid. Q: What is Maximum Path Overlap? A: Maximum Path Overlap is how much your infill overlaps with your perimeter.
However, if you are having issues with a gap between the infill and the perimeter of your print, you may need to adjust this. Before adjusting, you want to ensure your bed is perfectly level, as well as the first layer height is not too low, as these can cause identical issues as well. A: Exterior Speed is the speed at which the exterior shell is printed.
Exterior Maximum Speed is the maximum speed it will allow the shell to be printed at. It is recommended to leave these settings at default. A: The Visible Interior Speed is what speed the visible portion of the interior shell is printed at. Finally, Invisible Interior Speed is the speed at which the internal shell is printed. A: Top Solid Layers determine the number of solid layers on the upper surface of the model. Bottom Solid Layers determine the number of solid layers on the under surface of the model.
As with the Exterior and Internal Speeds, the recommended settings will work in almost every instance. Q: What is Fill Density? A: Fill Density determines the solidity of the interior of the model. However, increasing it too much is unstable and may cause the model to stick to the extruder or create "spaghetti" in your model. Q: What is Fill Pattern and which option is right for me?
A: Fill Pattern changes the pattern in which the infill is made. There are three options: Triangular - Appropriate when strength is required in the direction of the shell.
However, it takes longer to print. Provides greater overall strength in all directions than a rectangular pattern, with very little increase in print time. It is generally considered the most commonly used, strongest infill pattern. Line Infill - Compared with hexagon infill pattern, line infill pattern is less strong. Its toolpath is relatively simple and it takes less time to 3D print with a line infill pattern. Q: What is Overlap Perimeter? A: Overlap Perimeter will normally not need to be changed.
It changes how much the infill overlaps with the perimeter. If you are experiencing the infill overlapping with the perimeter too much this may need to be lowered; or raised if it is not overlapping enough. Q: What is Vase Mode? A: When Vase Mode is enabled, the interior infill and top solid infill will not be printed.
A: The Solid Speed is the speed at which the top and bottom parts are printed, while the Sparse Speed is the speed at which the infill is printed. A: These options allow you to combine the overlapped infill to speed up printing.
After combined, infill will be thicker while the thickness of the perimeter remains unchanged. A: With the Interval Layers setting, you can choose to have layers on a regular interval. Several solid layers are forced to print which makes the model stronger while increasing print time. Setting the Interval Layers to 0 will disable this.
The Solid Layers settings controls how many layers it makes if you have the Internal Layers setting enabled. Q: What is the difference between Treelike and Linear supports? A: Treelike supports are typically recommended for printing. As the name indicates, they are supports that look like small trees. This uses less filament and makes them easier to remove. Linear supports are simply bars that go straight up to support the model.
These are typically used where flat platforms are required but uses much more filament and are more difficult to remove. Q: What do the settings for Treelike supports do? A: Speed changes the percentage of the base print speed for printing treelike supports. Shell Count determines how many perimeters are created for the supports and can make them thicker.
Lower build plate while traveling is an option that lowers the build plate while the extruder is travelling moving without printing to avoid knocking down any supports.
Q: What do the settings for Linear supports do? A: Space to Model Z determines the vertical space between model and supports, which can also make supports easier to remove. Space to Raft Z determines the vertical space between the raft and supports, which can make supports easier to remove from the raft. Path Space determines the space between adjacent support paths.
A smaller space will give finer surface support but takes more time to print. A higher support thickness will give more solid supports; a lower thickness setting will result in supports that are easier to remove. Print Outline determines whether it will print and outline of the line support region. You can print an outline to avoid the issue of incomplete regions. Q: What is a raft? A: Rafts are platforms that your model is printed on.
They are typically used if you do not have flat surfaces, or very much surface area touching the bed. Generally, the settings for this can be left at default. Q: What is Pre-extrusion? A: Pre-extrusion is a very helpful tool that prints a line around the print bed, outside of where your actual print would be. This allows any oozing to be safely deposited outside of your model to avoid any potential issues. Q: What is a brim? Q: What is a wall? A: A wall is built around your print so that your extruder can scrape oozing filament onto it.
This is typically used for dual extruder setups, where the second extruder is also heated and not being used at that time. Q: What settings do I need to change in the Cooling tab? A: There are no settings you typically need to change from their default values in this tab. These are very specific settings, so if you are not sure what they do, and why you are changing them, it is best to leave them alone.
Q: What settings do I need to change in the Advanced tab? A: For the Stepper Motor Voltages, it is recommended to leave these at their default values. Changing these could potentially cause damage to the printer. The other settings under the advanced tab can cause potential issues with the models you are printing, so it is advised to leave these alone as well unless you know exactly why they are being changed. Q: What settings do I need to change in the Others tab? A: Like the Cooling and Advanced tabs, there is nothing here you need to change.
The default values for these settings are recommended. A: If any issues you are experiencing started after a change you made, ensure you reset all values back to default. Resetting the printer itself may resolve the issue as well. This will remove the option of it being available for printing. This process can also be done to assist with the reinstall of a printer driver. Here is how to do this: Type Control Panel in the search box at the lower left corner of the screen or found by clicking the Start button, then on click the Control Panel option to open it.
From the new pop-up window, Click Devices and Printers. Depending on view selected, if set to Category, click on View devices and printers 3.
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